The terroir
The very steep terroir of Geisberg has a complex composition. The wind patterns and low walls create a micro-climate that favours the slow ripening of the grapes, which Riesling is particularly fond of.
In order to respect the requirements of the terroir, the winegrowers limit their production by empirical methods and favour old vines. It is not uncommon to find plots that are over 60 years old.
Geisberg is a unique terroir, a musical score that is always playing new music. The winemakers have set themselves the goal of producing wines that reflect all the richness of this terroir: complex wines with great finesse and exceptional ageing potential.
A shared sensitivity to the site and a unified determination encourage the expression of Geisberg wines in all their differences, in an alliance that cannot be confused with monotonous uniformity!
The acidity characteristic of marl-limestone terroirs is powerful, but – and this is where much of the originality of this terroir lies – it is distinguished by great crystalline finesse.
History
« The Grand Cru takes its name from a steep spot where goats were probably sent (Geissberg, ‘Mont aux chèvres’); it was originally covered in scrub.
The following names can be found throughout the ages:
- 1308 : « am GEISEBERGE »
- 1319 : « an dem GEISSEBERGE »
- 1483 : « am GEISPERG »
According to another approach, some people do not hesitate to see in the name of the Grand Cru the evocation of the spirit (Geist, in German), not the spirit of the evil one, but rather that which manifests itself when tasting a good wine and which allows gourmets across the Rhine to say: dieser Wein hat Geist, to mean that the wine has body. »
The wines
The Geisberg, a terroir dedicated to Riesling
« The nose is subtle and enchanting, with delicate scents of flesh and citrus zest – such as lemon. On the palate, intense aromatic expression is grafted onto an elegant structure marked by the chiselled, almost grainy acidity that is such a refined hallmark of the wines of this Grand Cru. A harmonious, racy minerality unfolds with length, restraint and precision.
This is a terroir where Riesling is the master. The precision of the acidity and the right level of ripeness achieved in this Grand Cru produce a juicy sensation of lemon flesh and greedy salivation. »
The vintages
Great Geisberg vintages: 1921-1924-1937-1947-1949-1964-1967-1971-1975-1976-1983-1985-1988-1989-1990-1995-1996-2002-2005-2007-2008-2010.
For up to three or four years, the juiciness of Geisberg wines gives a playful, very pleasant sensation. The wine then refocuses on its minerality – a minerality that nonetheless preserves the gourmet spirit of the cru, while revealing saline notes combined with a patinated fleshiness.
« In early vintages, the citrus flesh is reminiscent of the playful character of the Geisberg vintages. In these vintages, the minerality is expressed to a greater extent, accentuating the wines’ fruity spirit. They remain fresh on the palate, with occasional hints of mint, and are always very precise.
In late vintages, the aromatic notes are more zesty. The wines are slimmer, with a taut minerality. The acidity has a little more depth, accentuating the saline expression of this terroir. »
The viewpoint of Pierre Casamayor, oenologist:
« Initially haughty, with an aromatic palette that only takes on its full grandeur when it shifts to its secondary component, this wine reveals itself to be upright, stretched like a bow by acidity married to a textbook minerality, with a dense, deep body endowed with a richness that never becomes languid. The wine stays on its feet for many years, acquiring a superb nobility of character while retaining an astonishing youthful structure. It lengthens over the years, developing a combination of fruit and minerality that puts this Riesling on a par with the very best. Once it has reached its level of complexity after five years, this wine can remain there for 20 to 30 years without ageing, even enriching its discourse. »
It is up to each individual to let his or her personal taste guide the ageing of these wines, which reveal a new facet with each age.
“The chiselled, elegant structure of the Geisberg vintages suggests dishes of great finesse and subtlety. Mediterranean cuisine is showcased here, along with seafood such as sole, turbot and brill. Sea bass cooked au naturel, vegetables preserved in olive oil and turbot cooked with lemongrass are just some of the dishes that perfectly express the complex finesse of this Grand Cru.”
Photo © JENNY / Textes CIVA – www.VinsAlsace.com
