The terroir
The Mandelberg hill or ‘almond tree hill’ is located immediately to the north of Mittelwihr.
The steep slopes on the outskirts of the village are the result of erosion by the small Sembach stream, which carries away water from the Riquewihr depression. Towards the top of the hill, the gradient diminishes, giving rise to a north-facing plateau. The main exposure is to the south, with slopes to the east where it meets the Alsace plain.
History
This site has been famous since Antiquity; the vines happily grow alongside the almond trees that give the coast its name.
“One day Charlemagne, on his way to Italy, stopped off on the heights of Mittelwihr, no doubt to quench his thirst at the source of the good vintages. When his caravan set off again, strange shells littered the ground. The people buried them to avoid any bad omens, and some time later almond trees blossomed. Thus was born, in legend, the Mandelberg, the ‘hill of almond trees’ where vines were said to have flourished as far back as Roman times.
The cultivation of fruit from the Mediterranean basin once marked the limits of the conquests of Rome’s legions. The vine and the almond tree were symbols of a new civilisation. On the Mandelberg, these mythical plants are as inseparable today as they once were in their countries of origin. They have become the emblem of Mittelwihr’s identity. This is reflected in the large number of family-run vineyards.
In the Middle Ages, nobles and ecclesiastics competed, here as elsewhere, for the best of the vineyards. The multitude of plots that make up the Grand Cru and their distant appellations bear witness to the fervour with which the hill was regarded by the lords of Horbourg and Wurtemberg, masters of the locality, and the various abbeys of Saint-Dié, Ebersmunster, Murbach and Pairis.”
The Mandelberg appellation appeared on Alsace bottles in 1925 and joined the Alsace Grand Cru family in 1992.
The wines
All the factors come together here to produce fruity, powerful and generous wines.
The well-balanced Rieslings are full-bodied but not overpowering. They are rich in harmony.
“The finish is racy and elegant, thanks to the presence of a nervousness which, from their youth, brings out fruity aromas…”
With Gewurztraminer, the palate has a rendezvous with power, volume and fatness.
“The body is racy and opulent. The oriental exuberance tends to mellow over the years thanks to the terroir, which contributes aromatic complexity that blends well with a remarkable structure.”
Mandelberg wines are full-bodied and voluminous.
“The mid-palate combines fullness, generosity and balance. Pastry and gourmet aromas are often noticeable – fruit paste and vanilla. The long finish is underpinned by subtle bitters, confirming the wines’ delicious character.
The natural tonicity of the Riesling highlights the fleshy spirit of the Mandelberg. The Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer have a generosity that lacks neither structure nor elegance.“
Vintages
In early vintages , the wines are noticeably softer, with notes of candied fruit and a complex range of aromas.
In late vintages , the volume of the Mandelberg remains striking, enveloping more vigorous acidity. The fruity character comes through, in a slightly fresher register.
Pairings
“The fullness and fleshiness of these wines will do justice to the powerful, spicy dishes that go so well with Mandelberg. Fish in a crust, rabbit, poultry, with or without spices, will be dishes whose powerful flavour will underline the aromatic relief and structure of this Grand Cru.“
Photo © ZVARDON / Textes CIVA – www.VinsAlsace.com
